How to guides
Here are some useful hints, tips and how to guides to help you with maintaining your EV and fixing issues yourself.
Nissan E-NV200: Replacing a DRL bulb
The daytime running lights on a Nissan E-NV200 are mounted within the front bumper and the user manual does not show you how to replace the bulbs. Instead it says you need to visit the Nissan dealership. This guide will show you how to do this simple job yourself.
Nissan Leaf: Charge flap wont stay shut
A common problem on the 2011-2017 Nissan Leaf is the charge flap may not properly shut, not staying closed or not open when the release button is pushed. This is caused by the latch rusting. This guide shows you how to repair the latch, as Nissan do not sell the individual replacement part.
Mitsubishi i-MiEV / Peugeot iOn / Citroen C-Zero
Peugeot iOn: DC charge flap not opening
Peugeot iOn: Replacing the 12V battery
Sourcing a replacement 12v auxiliary battery for the Mitsubishi i-MiEV, Peugeot iOn and Citroen C-Zero can be tricky. This page shows you what battery to purchase and shows you how you can replace the 12V batter yourself.
Peugeot iOn: Stiff gear selector or dash warning lights
A stiff gear selector can result in the gear selector display flashing and the electric motor error light coming on. The reason is that the gear selector gets rusted and stiff under the car. This shows you how you can simply fix this yourself.
Peugeot Partner / Citroen Berlingo
Peugeot Partner: Fixing a rattle in the door
A very common issue on all Peugeot Partner & Citroen Berlingo vans is a rattle in the door. Even vans that are only a few months old can suffer from this. These instructions show you how you can fix this yourself.
Renault Kangoo ZE
Renault Kangoo: Charge flap stiff or broken
A common issue on Renault Kangoo's (with a type 2 charger) is that the front charge flap can get stiff or break off. This guide shows you how to reduce the change of it breaking by lubricating it and how to replace it if it does snap off.
Renault Kangoo: Water leaking into cabin
Water leaking into the cabin, typically in the footwells, is a common issue on many vehicles and is due to the drain channels being blocked with debris. It seems to be more common on Renault Kangoos and typically will happen after the autumn when the leaves have dropped from the trees, blocking rain channels within the vehicle. This guide will show you how to fix it yourself, but the same principles are for all vehicles.
Renault Kangoo: Squealing noise from the rear
A squealing noise at low speed is often a sign that the brakes are binding. This is more common on a EV due to the lack of use of the brakes, as the motor regen does most the work. As most of the braking on a vehicle is on the front brakes, the rear hardly get used at all on an EV which results in rusting and binding brakes. This can also seriously hamper your range as it is like driving around with the handbrake on.
Renault Kangoo: Heater failure
The Kangoo ZE 22kWh (2010-2017) uses a resistive/PTC heater which can fail. The same PTC heater is also used on the Nissan Leaf & ENV200. This page below details the problem and in time hopefully a source of repair instead of the main dealers replacing the item. The newer 33kWh models use a heat pump so do not have the same issues.
Renault Twizy: Replacing the charge flap
Renault Twizy: Fixing door rattles
Another common issue with the Twizy is that the doors can rattle due to parts missing from the door latches. This guide will show you what parts you can replace to make sure the doors shut properly and are free from rattles.
Renault Twizy: Replacing the 12V battery
The 12V auxiliary battery will be something that every Twizy owner will need to replace at some stage. Due to their small size, they don't last too long. This guide will show you how to replace the battery and source an alternative to the expensive Renault one.
Renault Twizy: Removing the front panel
The front panel on the Twizy needs to be removed to access the headlight bulbs, indicator bulbs and the brake fluid chamber. This guide shows you how to remove it and the replacement clips required if they are missing.
Renault Zoe: Fitting an armrest
The armrest is an accessory available from Renault. It can easily be fitted yourself and this guide will give you all the information you need to order the correct part and fit it in your Zoe.
Renault Zoe: Charge flap stiff or broken
A common issue on Renault Zoe's (and Renault Kangoo's with a type 2 charger) is that the front charge flap can get stiff or break off. This guide shows you how to reduce the change of it breaking by lubricating it and how to replace it if it does snap off.
Renault Zoe: Resetting the range meter
The range meter is only an estimate of the range of the vehicle and it is based on many factors, but primarily the past driving style. Because of this, they can be wildly inaccurate in certain circumstances. This guide shows you how to reset the Zoe range meter, so it starts 'learning' again.
Renault Zoe: Zen scent diffuser
The Renault Zoe Zen model included a scent diffuser in the dashboard. This guide on how to add new scent to the diffuser, as Renault have stopped making the replacement capsules.
Renault Zoe: Rear seat removal
The rear seat is easily removable in a Renault Zoe. This guide shows you how to remove the rear back rest for extra loading space and why you shouldn't remove the seat base.
Renault Zoe: Broken headlight mountings
A video to show what to look out for when looking at used Renault Zoe's. The headlight mounting brackets can break when there's been an impact on the front bumper.
Renault Zoe: Replacing the anti-roll bar drop links
A common issue on the Renault Zoe is the drop links (also called stabiliser bars or anti-roll bar/sway bar links) wear out prematurely. The symptoms are a rattle at the front when driving on rough roads. Typically they need changing around every 25,000 miles on a Zoe. This guide shows you how you can this yourself if you have the tools and ability.
Renault Zoe: Rattle in the rear hatch
It is quite common on used Renault Zoe's to have a rattle in the rear hatch. This is caused by dealerships replacing the number plates and leaving the ends of the rivets rattling around inside the hatch. This guide shows you how to fix this yourself.